18世纪法国关于假发历史.doc

Contents Vol. 111, No. 3 JUNE 2006 Big Hair: A Wig History of Consumption in Eighteenth-Century France MICHAEL KWASS FRONTISPIECE: Wigs. Encyclopédie, ou Dictionnaire raisonnée des sciences, des arts et des métiers. Recueil de planches, sur les sciences, les arts libéraux, et les arts méchaniques, avec leur explication, 11 vols. (Paris, 1762–1772), s.v. Perruquier. ? ? In the winter of 1751, after accepting a position of some responsibility in the world of finance, Jean-Jacques Rousseau fell gravely ill. Bedridden, delirious with fever, and facing the prospect of his own death, the philosopher resolved to change the course of his life. He renounced all projects of fortune and advancement, including his new job, and vowed to spend what little time he had left in a state of independence and poverty. After his convalescence, Rousseau remained true to his pledge and embarked on what he called his personal reform. His first act was to change his wardrobe: I began my reform with my finery, he wrote. I gave up my gold trimmings and white stockings, I took a short wig, I laid aside my sword, I sold my watch. Later recounting the same episode, he stated: I left le monde and its pomp. I renounced all finery: no more sword, no more watch, no more white stockings, gold trimmings, hairdo. Instead, he wore a simple wig and clothes of good rough wool. 1 1 ? ????As a philosophical statement, Rousseaus personal reform was loaded with meaning. The act of dressing down signified that the author of the recently published Discours sur les sciences et les arts was putting his philosophy into practice; he was turning his back on the luxury and artifice of Parisian high society and embracing a virtuous and authentic mode of living. I invoke Rousseaus reform, however, not only to raise its philosophical implications but also to make a specific sartorial observation. Although Rousseau renounced fashionable clothing and accessories, he did not jettison the wig. Instead, he abandoned