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In the Kitchen, I Got the Power 在厨房,我是上帝.doc
In the Kitchen, I Got the Power 在厨房,我是上帝
It’s just as I’m about to start seasoning the rib of beef, massaging it with mustard powder, salt and lust, that the question occurs to me. It’s one of those blunt1), heavy-browed questions that forces you to stop what you are doing, palms forward over the meat. It is: Why am I doing this? Why am I about to embark on cooking a meal of such intricacy? This fine rib―and it really is a marvel of marbling2) and crimson3) muscle―is only the advance guard4). Alongside will have to come batter5) for Yorkshire puddings, the parboiling6) and roasting of potatoes, the grating7) of fresh horseradish8), the tricky endgame of the gravy and so much else besides. There is work here.
The blunt answer is that we have friends coming for lunch and we must give them something. But that’s not good enough. The “something” really doesn’t have to be all this. Am I trying to flatter them, prove my deep affection through searing and seasoning, peeling and chopping? I hope not. We’ve been friends for long enough without all that malarkey9). Hell, we’ve done takeaways together. If I sent out for10) lunch now they wouldn’t complain.
I could do some extended riff11) here on my own greed; how the other people are an irrelevance, that in truth the person I’m really feeding is me. Obviously that’s true. Only a good eater can be a good cook. But while I’m not beyond going to some effort to feed just myself, there are some dishes that have to be prepared in bulk. A fully accessorised roast rib of beef is one of them. You can’t do that for one. At the end of the process I will benefit from the pleasure of getting to eat it.
But I’m not convinced that really answers the question either. I look around the kitchen, which I know will, over the next coming hours, deteriorate until it looks like a bunch of especially foodie burglars have been in and ransacked12) every spice rack, condiment shelf and vegetable store. No matter. It’s only a bit of tidying u
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