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化妆品用茶油精炼工艺及性能研究
林锷 廖小霖 许宝如 叶海花 潘敏仪
指导老师:吴雪辉
(华南农业大学食品学院 广州 510642)
摘 要:以压榨毛茶油为原料,探讨了化妆品茶油的精炼方法与工艺条件,通过正交试验优化出化妆品茶油的最佳精炼工艺:采用低温酸化脱胶,柠檬酸用量0.4%、加水量2%、温度40℃、时间2h;碱炼脱酸,碱液浓度16°Be、碱炼初温40℃、终温60℃、碱炼时间20min;活性炭脱色,活性炭用量为2%、控制油温60℃、脱色时间25min。精炼后的化妆品茶油具有很好的紫外吸收能力和良好的保湿性能,较高的氧化稳定性,以及对细菌、霉菌、酵母菌具有良好的抑菌效果。其主要脂肪酸组成为棕榈酸9.99%、硬脂酸1.7%、油酸79.15%、亚油酸4.39%,各项指标均达到化妆品用油的质量标准。
关键词:精炼 化妆品茶油 脂肪酸组成 紫外吸收作用 保湿性能 氧化稳定性 抑菌作用
The Refining Technics and the Properties of Camellia Oil for Cosmetics
LIN E LIAO Xiao-lin XU Bao-ru YE Hai-hua PAN Min-yi
Advisor:Wu Xue-hui
(College of Food Science, South China Agricultural University, Guangzhou, 510642)
Abstract: The pressed wool camellia oil was taken as the raw materi to study the the technics for degumming, deacidification and bleaching for camellia oil, to discuss the possibility of camellia oil application in cosmetics, and to set up a set of refinement processing technology for cosmetic oil, in order to offer a new way for the camellia oil utilization. The conclusions of the best refining technics of camellia oil for cosmetics were based on single factor experiments and orthogonal experiments. The operation by low-temperature hydration degumming was refined at 40℃ with 2% water and 0.4% citric acid for 2 hours. And the technics for deacidification was with the concentration of NaOH 16°Be, the beginning temperature 40℃ and the final temperature 60℃ for 20min under stirring. The re-washing process was followed the deacidification in order to remove the residuary alkali and soap. The operation was by 8% hot water at 80℃, and then drying at 0.1 MPa, 80℃. The technics by normal-pressure adsorption bleaching was to decolor at 60℃ with 2% active clay for 25min under stirring in normal-pressure condition. After refining, the oil had high absorptive capacity of Ultraviolet,good moisture retention , high oxidative stability, and strong antimicrobial activity to mold, yeast and bacteria tested .The main components detected were palmitic acid9.99%,
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