皮革化学.ppt

Nov. 09, 2009 Introduction Introduction Manufacture of leather is one of the oldest technological profession. Historically leather production was made by skilled tanners in very small unit : it was a craftsmanship. When Industrial Revolution started (1850), meat consumption increased and consequently source of hides increase tremendously. Enhanced communication and transport allowed to import foreign hides, then tanneries grew to un-precedent size. Tannery become an “industry”. Introduction From the first industrial tannery in Philipsburg Introduction To a modern tannery Leather Technology Leather structure = Corium Leather Technology As tanners we have the chance to work on a live material : Collagen Protein containing both acid and basic amino acids groups, non polar amino acids and relatively high percentage of proline and hydroxyproline. Production of leather can be looked upon three steps : Removal of unwanted component (hair, fats,…) React this network with tanning material to get a stabilized fiber structure Build onto the tanned fibers characteristic of fullness, softness, lubrication, color, then finish the fiber surface and produce a useful product Leather Technology BEAMHOUSE Leather Technology WET-END Leather Technology All BH and WE processes are conducted in reactors called drums : Finishing Finishing is a complex and vaste matter that cannot be only studied. It must be daily used in order to stimulate personal creativity and “sensibility”. Consist in mechanical and manual operations through which filming and non filming agents are applied on leathers in order to get better aspect, feeling, protection. Buyers are asking more and more that finished leather may keep aspect and physical characteristics for long time, goal that can be achieved through continuous production inspection and use of high quality finishing products. Finishing Fundamental Finishing Purpose is to produce leathers having : Constant aspect and physical characteristics Homoge