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Marks
INSEAD
This case was written by Nicolas Harlé, Boston Consulting Group MBA Fellow, Michael Pich,
Assistant Professor of Operations Management, and Ludo Van der Heyden, the Solvay Professor for
Technological Innovation and the Wendel/CGIP Chaired Professor for the Large Family Firm, both at
INSEAD. It is intended to be used as a basis for class discussion rather then to illustrate either
effective or ineffevtive handling of an administartive situation. Financial support and numerous inputs
from Boston Consulting Group and its associates are warmly acknowledged. The case was written
largely on publicly available information. A detailed list of sources is provided in the endnotes to
this case.
Copyright ? 2002 INSEAD, France-Singapore.
Marks Spencer and Zara: Process Competition in the
Textile Apparel Industry
02/2002-4974
N.B. PLEASE NOTE THAT DETAILS OF ORDERING INSEAD CASES ARE FOUND ON THE BACK COVER. COPIES MAY NOT BE MADE
WITHOUT PERMISSION.
INSEAD 4974 1
Copyright ? 2002, INSEAD, France-Singapore.
On September 8, 2000, Marks Spencer initiated a ￡20 million
advertising campaign with a television commercial of a
Rubenesque, size-16 woman running up a hill, tearing off her
clothes and standing naked at the top of the hill screaming “I’m
normal!”i Some saw this as a long-awaited recognition by the
textile industry that the average British female was not well
represented by the waif-like figures idolized in most
advertisements. Others saw it as a desperate attempt to reclaim
customers who had apparently deserted the well-established
British retailer in favour of more fashionable and equally well-
priced competitors. Still others saw it as pornographic and
insisted that the advertising campaign be banned.
In response to accusations of complacency following poor sales figures over several seasons
of fairly unappealing women’s wear ranges,1 MS introduced changes in management,
launched a ‘trendy’ designer collection called “Autograph”, and actively
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