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Essendoubi_et_al-2016-Skin_Research_and_Technology
Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different
molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy
M. Essendoubi1, C. Gobinet1, R. Reynaud2, J. F. Angiboust1, M. Manfait1 and O. Piot1
1MEDyC Unit, MeDIAN Biophotonique et Technologies pour la Sante, SFR CAP SANTE, CNRS UMR 7369, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of
Reims Champagne – Ardenne (URCA), Reims, France and 2Soliance, Route de Bazancourt, Pomacle, France
Background: Topical delivery of molecules into the human
skin is one of the main issues in dermatology and cosmetol-
ogy. Several techniques were developed to study molecules
penetration into the human skin. Although widely accepted, the
conventional methods such as Franz diffusion cells are unable
to provide the accurate localization of actives in the skin lay-
ers. A different approach based on Raman spectroscopy has
been proposed to follow-up the permeation of actives. It pre-
sents a high molecular specificity to distinguish exogenous
molecules from skin constituents.
Methods: Raman micro-imaging was applied to monitor the
skin penetration of hyaluronic acids (HA) of different molecular
weights. The first step, was the spectral characterization of
these HA. After, we have determined spectral features of HA
by which they can be detected in the skin. In the second part,
transverse skin sections were realized and spectral images
were recorded.
Results: Our results show a difference of skin permeation of
the three HA. Indeed, HA with low molecular weight (20–
300 kDa) passes through the stratum corneum in contrast of
the impermeability of high molecular weight HA (1000–
1400 kDa).
Conclusion: Raman spectroscopy represents an analytical,
non-destructive, and dynamic method to evaluate the perme-
ation of actives in the skin layers.
Key words: Raman spectroscopy – hyaluronic acid of differ-
ent molecular weight – skin – penetration/permeation – locali-
zation
2015 John Wiley Sons A/S. Published by John
Wiley Sons Ltd
Accepted for publication 15 Febru
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