surfing–英语课件.ppt

* * * * * Surfing is a surface water sport in which a person (the surfer) rides a board (the surfboard) on the crest of a wave as it carries the surfer towards the shore. For centuries surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture. Surfing might have been observed first at Tahiti in Spring 1767 by Samuel Wallis and the crew members of the Dolphin who quickly visited the island on 17 June 1767. Another candidate is the botanist Joseph Banks being part of the First voyage of James Cook on the HMS Endeavour, who arrived on 10 April 1769 on Tahiti. Lieutenant James King was the first one who wrote about the art of surfing on Hawaii when completing the journals of Captain James Cook upon Cooks death in 1779. When Mark Twain visited Hawaii in 1866 he wrote, In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing. References to surf riding on planks and single canoe hulls are also verified for pre-contact Samoa, where surfing was called faasee or seegalu (see Kramer, Samoa Islands) and Tonga. The origin of surfing Surfers can be classified into 3 categories: Professional (Pro), Average and Kook. A professional surfer is someone who is very good at it and is usually paid. An average surfer is anyone who enjoys the sport of surfing and can stand up and turn. A kook is someone who drops in on you (cuts you off or snakes you) or is just a terrible surfer. As long as kooks dont get in the way of anyone and practice they become average. The Surfer Two major subdivisions within stand-up surfing are long boarding and short boarding, reflecting differences in surfboard design including surfboard length, and riding style. In tow-in surfing (most often, but not exclusively, associated with big wave surfing), a motorized water vehicle, such as a personal watercraft tows the surfer into the wave front, helping the surfer match a large waves higher speed, a speed that is gene