攀冰技能大杂烩.docx

Ice Climbing Skills Special 攀冰技能大杂烩（摘自）Ive been climbing ice for more than 30 years, and I still get chills before starting up a column of steep ice.Sure, modern ice tools and crampons, warm gloves, and easy-to-place screws have made ice climbing much easier than it used to be. These days, a new ice climber can follow short sections of near-vertical ice on her first day out. A competent rock climber can lead lower-angle ice climbs halfway through his first season on ice, as long as he gets enough mileage. Yet for many climbers, truly vertical ice—WI4+ and up—remains frightening territory.But it doesn’t have to be that way. As with any other form of climbing, the keys to confident ice climbing are the right techniques, systematic practice, and a modest amount of training. We asked seven of North America’s most experienced ice climbers to share their hard-won wisdom. Put their tips to work, and we guarantee you’ll be more comfortable—and safer—on steep ice. —Dougald MacDonald从我开始攀冰到现在已经有三十年了，但我仍然在开始攀登一段陡峭的冰壁前感到很紧张。显而易见，现代化的冰镐和冰爪、保暖的手套和易于放置的冰锥都使得攀冰比之前容易很多。现如今，一个第一天攀冰的新人基本就已经可以跟攀一段较短的几近垂直的冰壁。一个具备一定能力的攀岩者，在积累了一定的攀冰里程数之后，就能在第一个冰季里先锋一段低角度冰坡。但对于很多攀冰者来说，真正的垂直冰壁——WI4+或者更高的系数——仍然令人心惊胆颤。但事情可以不这样。和其他任何形式的攀登一样，自信攀冰的关键就在于正确的技巧、系统的练习、和大量的训练。我走访了7位北美最具攀冰经验的攀冰者来分享他们的智慧。把他们的窍门付诸实践，我们可以保证你将更加自信地——更加安全地——攀登陡峭的冰壁。—Dougald MacDonald这七位攀冰者是：来自加拿大艾伯塔的Barry Blanchard和Will Gadd、犹他州的Caroline George、科罗拉多的Clint Cook、Jack Roberts和Steve House，以及新罕布什尔的Mark Synnot。（攀冰者照片略）Technique: Squat, Stand, SwingBy Will GaddTo lead vertical ice safely and efficiently (and not just get up it), you need to have toproped or followed at least 50 pitches of steep ice. There are no shortcuts to this process, no secret workouts or vitamins—just action. Hang a toprope on a steep piece of ice and go at it for five or six big sessions. Practice placing screws, reading the ice, and climbing with and without tools and/or crampons. Soon you’ll be champing at the bit to lead, rather than sketching up the crystal.Before star