对当代丝绸服饰的符号学解读与消费文化分析.PDF

Vol.49 第49卷 No.06, Jun. 2012 2012年06月 第06期 设计与产品 对当代丝绸服饰的符号学解读与 消费文化分析 吕 昉 (浙江理工大学 服装学院，杭州 310018) 摘要：尝试运用消费主义文化理论，借助符号学和消费者行为分析，解释当代丝绸作为奢侈品和设计品的意义。提出国内的丝绸服饰 设计应该关注年轻和大众消费者的需求，设计出有更丰富和多元符号意义的丝绸服饰，使消费者能通过丝绸服饰来建构身份、建构自 我、建构与他人的关系。认为丝绸服饰品以及类似的传统服饰制品，除了在服用性能、穿着舒适性方面进一步适应现代生活之外，其 设计、销售、品牌传播等方面，也要适应现代消费者特别是感性消费、符号消费的特点，开发适合中端消费者的优质设计品，才能抓 住年轻人的心，也才能实现本土丝绸品牌的振兴。 关键词：丝绸；服饰；消费文化；符号学 中图分类号：TS941.12 文献标志码：B 文章编号：1001-7003(2012)06-0059-04 Analyses on interpretation of semeiology and consumer culture of modern silk costumes in China LÜ Fang (School of Fashion Design and Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou 310018, China) Abstract: This paper tries to use cultural theory of consumerism to explain the significance of silk as luxury and design product by means of semeiology and analyses of consumers behavior. Besides, it suggests that the design of domestic silk costumes should pay attention to demands of young consumers and most consumers to design silk costumes with more abundant and diversified symbol significance so that consumers can construct their status, themselves and their relationship with others by silk costumes. It considers that silk costumes and other similar traditional costumes should not only adapt to modern life in aspects of performance and comfortableness but also satisfy modern consumers, especially the characteristics of perceptual consumption and symbol consumption, to develop high-quality products that are suitable for common consumers and