女装公主线制作.doc

摘 要 来自于欧洲古典高级时装设计的公主线结构，已经成为当今女装结构设计中的经典结构之一。公主线结构在表现和处理人体美方面具有独到之处，具有最为典型的审美造型特征，非常值得利用各种技术手段对它进行详尽的研究。服装的结构设计与人体体形有着密切的 关系，特别是在制作合体女装 ，充分考虑女子的体形特征显得尤其重要。为了使制成的服装符合人体的体型，在结构设计中常做挺胸收腰等处理。 而公主线分割是最常用的处理方法之一，利用公主线分割可以将女装衣片原型或女装衣片结构中适当的乳凸量转移到分割线上，使得成形后的服装更符合女子体型曲线的立体效果。本文通过版型的制作，研究公主线分割的结构设计，分析不同的分割线位置的设定、不同乳凸量在分割线上的转移、以及不同围度松量服装结构造型产生的影响，为女装结构的合理性提供依据，在此功能性的基础上也同时使之更符合荷加斯线条的审美标准，并运用之，保证设计制作公主线服装线条弧度适中、流畅而具美感。以公主线款式纸样的制作为例，在处理前片与前侧片、后片与后侧片的拼合时，胸围线以上的线条要保持直顺，尤其在背宽处公主线线条的感觉。弧形与线条长度要同时调整，避免弧度太大，太弧的线条会显得人背部过于圆浑，似老年体而影响美感。 简而言之，使公主线实现曲线优美自然，且着装时合体并符合人体的曲率。设计得体的女装不仅能体现出女性的柔美、典雅、大方, 更能展示女性的端庄、智慧、精干, 故被女性优美的曲线, 又能掩饰人体的某些不足, 使瘦者丰满、胖者苗条, 给人以美的享受。 关键词： 公主线　　女装结构　　分割线　　　省量转移　　　　女装造型　　　　 目 录 前言····················································································································· 第一章　绪论······································································································ 第一节 服装设计中分割线的应用······························································· 第二节 公主线的发展历史······································································· 第三节 公主线的结构特征················································································ 第二章　公主线结构服装线条的美学和功能性分析················································ 第一节　公主线线条的美学分析········································································ 第二节　公主线线条的功能性分析··································································· 第三章女装公主线版型的制作分析························································ 第一节 公主线结构因素的分析及对服装造型的影响················································· 第二节 小结·································································································· 第四章 结论··························································································· 参考文献··························································································· 附录···············································································································  前言 服装是通过线条的结合而展开的，其款