传统白蒙丝布法工艺与碱剂印花显色探究.pdf

ScienceofSericulture蚕业科学

202349(5)：0423-0429

ISSN0257-4799;CN32-1115/S

D0I:10.13441/ki.cykx.2023.05.005

传统白蒙丝布法工艺与碱剂印花显色探究

朱盼盼武会会吴海芳

（宁波大学潘天寿建筑与艺术设计学院，浙江宁波315000)

要文中根据碱剂印花生丝局部脱胶显花工艺原理，以传统脱胶工艺对印花显色的影响为切入点，采用《多能部事》卷四

摘要

染色法中传统染白蒙丝布法对真丝销脱胶工艺进行复原与优化，探讨了不同浴比、蛎灰水pH、处理温度和处理时间条件下真

丝绡脱胶率的变化，以及不同脱胶率织物在石榴皮染色时的碱剂印花显色规律。结果表明，真丝绡织物从未脱胶至逐步脱胶

状态，织物颜色特征值明度L*值显著提高，色相α*值、色相b*值、纯度c*值均缓慢下降，织物表面得色量（K/S值）下降，碱

剂印花显色对比效果呈现由弱到强的趋势。脱胶完全工艺条件下，织物L*值最高，K/S值最低，印花显色对比最为强烈。针

对不同显色意向及面料肌理质感需求，可参考相应脱胶工艺条件进行个性化创作，通过传统碱剂印花工艺复原为现代设计实

践提供方法借鉴。

关键词白蒙丝布法；蛎灰脱胶；碱剂印花；工艺复原

中图分类号TS194文章编号0257-4799(2023)05-0423-07

ResearchonTraditionalSilkDegummingProcessandColorDeve-

lopmentofAlkalineAgentPrinting

ZhuPanpanWuHuihui*WuHaifang

(FacultyofPanTianshouArtandDesign,NingboUniversity,NingboZhejiang315000,China)

AbstractInthispaper,basedontheprincipleoflocaldegummingprocessofrawsilkprintingwithalkalineagent,and

takingtheinfluenceoftraditionaldegummingprocessonthecolordevelopmentofprintsasastartingpoint,the

traditionaldegummingprocessinVolumeIVDyeingMethodofthebookBeCapableofGeneralAffairswasusedtore-

coverandoptimizethedegummingprocessofsilkgauze.Thispaperexploredthechangesinthedegummingrateofsilk

gauzeunderdifferentbathratio,pHvaluesofoysterashsolution,treatmenttemperatureandprocessingtime,aswellas

thecolordevelopmentpatternofalkaliprintingonfabricswithdifferentdegummingrateswhendyedwithpomegranate

peel.TheresultsshowedthatthecolorcharacteristicvalueofbrightnessL*increasedsignificantly,thehuevaluea*,

huevalueb*andthepurityvaluec*alldecreasedslowly,thecolordepthonthesurfaceofthefabric(K/Svalue)de-

creased,andthecontrasteffectofalkaliprintingshowedatrendfromunobvioustosignificant.Undercompletedegum-

ming